Instructions for Mounting a Glass Tile on Its Face

Installing glass tiles is one of the best design choices for your home or business. You can choose from a wide range of color options. You may easily create your custom color combination if you don’t want to match your backsplash to your granite countertops, oak cabinets, and stainless steel appliances. Since glass tile does not age poorly, it will still be fashionable in 20 years.

If you want your glass tile appropriately installed, choose a professional. They’re used to dealing with thinner materials and can make your project seem significant when they’re done. But many opt to put up their glass tile sheets. Here you’ll find some advice on how to do it yourself rather than hire an expensive expert. The data provided is for paper-mounted glass tiles. Tiles are typically 1/8″ thick.

Several items of equipment and materials will be required before you begin. You’ll need three buckets: one for holding water, one for mixing thin sets, and one for grout. Putting on a dusk mask is recommended before combining the powders with water. It’s also a good idea to have a putty knife, a 3/16″ notched trowel, some 1/16″ spacers, some old rags for cleaning up, a delicate sponge (not very porous), and a grout float.

Make sure your surface is ready to go before you start. Don’t install tiles straight onto drywall. If you can, switch to a thin backing board instead. The internet is a wealth of knowledge regarding surface preparation for any room in your house or office. Check this out first. You’ll need to locate a place of departure, too. Each setup has its unique requirements. Do not begin in a secluded area. You prefer to be backed into a tight spot.

Never adhere glass tiles with mastic. Instead, it would be best if you used thin-set mortar. Add a latex ingredient, not water, to the dried narrow set. The additive enhances the adhesiveness of the thin group and the strong bond it forms with the glass tiles. The light set must be prepared according to the manufacturer’s guidelines. Put on the dust mask, just in case.

The putty knife can now apply the thin set to the surface. It’s best to start small until you get the hang of installing things. To start, apply only enough adhesive to hold down one complete glass tile sheet. Use lengthy, straight trowel strokes to cover the entire thin set. To achieve a depth of 1/16″, keep the trowel at a 45-degree angle. The narrow set used should be wiped back into the bucket.

Paper side out, first sheet. Once you get it where you want it, press the sheet down gently with a 24. This will ensure the thin set is in contact with every tile. Avoid getting glue in the spaces between tiles. This indicates that you have dispersed your limited resources too widely. You may need to take down the sheet and scrub the thin set. You can give it another shot now.

Next to the initial sheet, spread out some more thin sets. Put the second sheet adjacent to the first one using the 1/16″ spacers. Use the 2×4 to flatten it out.

The thin-set will begin to firm after about 15 minutes, so continue working in this manner until the first sheet has set. Use a damp sponge or rag to soak the paper. When the piece changes color to a darker brown, it’s done. To unwind the form fully, gently pull on each corner until it separates. You can lose a tile or two if you try to pull straight out.

Keep taping new sheets and removing old ones until the whole surface is covered. When using a toothpick to remove the paper, remember to clean the grout as well. Removing the thin set after it has hardened will be very difficult.

The sheets of glass mosaic tiles are also trimmed to size, so they can be shaped to fit around outlets or other protruding features in your space. However, you’ll need to dig out the tile cutter if you reach a corner and see that the tiles won’t fit snugly into it without modification. It would be best if you didn’t use a wet saw. The glass will just be shattered. The tile should be cut around fixtures with a pair of wheeled cutters. When you need to make a smaller tile, break it in half. Intricate cuts are available as well. The cuts should always be made with the corner in mind. Any shaky reductions won’t be noticeable after they’ve been grouted.

Grouting can begin once the tiles have dried for a full day. Grout can be mixed according to the manufacturer’s instructions in a separate bucket. The grout does not require a latex addition. Use water instead. Using a grout float and a back-and-forth motion, spread the grout across the tiles to fill the grout joints. Remove any excess grout from the tiles by wiping them down.

Allow the grout to set in your joints for around 10 minutes. Then, begin cleaning the remaining grout with a damp sponge. You know you’re ready to finish cleaning if you see grout coming out of the joints as you wipe. Grab some cheap paper towels and clean the tiles to perfection. This will clean the tiles of any remaining grout but will not flush the joints with water.

Once the grout has been removed from the tiles’ surface, a stiff brush can remove any residue from the tiles’ pores. If haze forms after an hour, remove it with a clean cloth. Half distilled vinegar and half water should be used if the confusion continues. Soak a fresh white cloth in the solution, then squeeze the excess liquid. After a quick wipe-off, the grout haze should disappear from your tiles.

Seal the grout with a good-grade sealant once it has cured for several days.

WARNING: Please use this data as a reference only. No assurances can be made. It’s best to bring in an expert tile setter who has worked with face-mounted glass mosaics before.

For nearly eight years, mosaic artist Tammy Wise has been practicing her craft. Her mosaic art has been commissioned by corporations and featured in significant glass magazines. In Owasso, Oklahoma, Tammy has her own mosaic business as of right now. Worldwide, customers can order high-quality supplies from Tile Shack Mosaics. You can get all the necessary materials and learn more about mosaics here.

Read also: